South Asia Trip (Sept - Dec 2002)

Week #10 Update

First things first: Eid Mubarak to all those that celebrate Eid.

Wow, I can truly say that week 10 has been one of my favourites so far in terms of the relaxing chill time I am having! I'll start off with my departure form Mumbai for Bangalore. It was a 24 hr journey so quite long and this time I did not meet anybody interesting on the train to talk to. So I kept to myself and wrote in my journal and read most of the lord of the rings - the fellowship. Can't wait to watch the second Lord of the rings and Harry potter when I get back.

So in Bangalore, I stayed with my cousin Lara's in-laws and they were the nicest people. They weren't sure what to expect - a completely westernized fellow or what. So they were pleasantly surprised to see that I was a typical Indian man who eats all Indian food! The first day in Bangalore I just walked around for about 4-5 hrs in the city exploring and seeing all the sights (not that many in Bangalore) and shopping on the famous Brigade rd which has some crazy deals on good indo-western style clothes. That night, Aarvind Bhai took me to his club (colonial style sports club - billiards room, restaurant, sports facilities, hang out for families and all) and met some of his friends. Great bunch of late 30 year olds that entertained me. Later Aarvind Bhai and Rohit Bhai picked up their wives and the 5 of us went to watch The Guru! Great movie and very interactive audience. Even though the movie was less tan 2 rs long, there was an intermission just like in Hindi films. After that we went to the Taj Hotel for coffee and food.

Next day I got up early for an organized tour to Mysore. Met another lonely traveler named Jatin. He is fresh engineering graduate from Delhi so we got on well and ended up sightseeing together in Mysore. Nice place but tour was hectic and went to the main sites on bus. Our tour guide mysteriously left the bus on the way to Bangalore without instructing the drivers to drop off people at their respective pick up points. So when they stopped the bus and asked all the Indians to get off, we all resisted and refused to get off the bus until arrangements were made to drop us off. Somehow, I became the ringleader and was a bit apprehensive as my Hindi could not be better than the local Indians. But my attitude is what was needed and I prevailed after an hour of arguing and talked with the tour company! It was awesome to argue in Hindi as an Indian and be a ringleader for a bunch of other Indians. I was really proud and happy that I could do that!

Sunday in Bangalore was chill and spent it with Aarvind Bhai, Meenu didi and their young kids Arjun and Arushi. Ate pizza at dominos and then menu did took me shopping at a cool department store like Eaton's. She insisted on buying me something so I got a nice top and an adidas hat! That night they dropped me off just in the nick of time for my train as we got lost going to one of their friend's new place in the booneys of Bangalore! The train trip to Cochin was uneventful as less and less people speak Hindi as you go south and their language Malayalam (read it in both directions - it is the same word) is completely different from any of the north Indian dialects like guju, Punjabi, Hindi, bangla etc. So being in south India is quite different for me, as I cannot communicate in any Indian language with the locals. It is kind of frustrating as it makes me feel like a tourist and not an Indian. My perception (and most of you as well) of India has always been North India so experiencing South India challenges that perception.

A few differences I have noticed between north and south: 1. They are more educated and literacy rate in Kerala is highest in India at 95% 2. They are more hygienic and clean - no pissing and spitting everywhere like N. Indians 3. They are a friendly people and accept other people's views as long as they make sense 4. They love coconuts!

In Cochin, I did the regular sight seeing by myself and saw the first church in India built my Portuguese. Vasco da Gama was buried there for 14 years after which his remains were moved to Lisbon. Cochin is a blend of cultures - Portuguese, Jews, south Indians (Muslim, Hindu and Christian) and is reflected in its architecture and food. The state of Kerala is on the Arabian seacoast and there are tones of backwaters around - canals that run through the land and leads into the sea. So boat rides on the backwaters is a popular thing. I took a 3 hr one and went through villages and saw some of the local industries that exist. I have attached a picture of the backwaters as only a picture can convey the beauty and serenity of them.

I am now in Varkala, which is a beautiful beach resort about 150 km north of the tip of India in the south. I took a bus here from Cochin and it was a 5 hr journey on 3 buses. Got to Varkala after dark so started walking towards the cliff and I kept walking and walking and couldn't find the cliffs. Some guy on a scooter solicited me for a room at 100Rs and I gladly said yes after I realized I was sweating a litre! This place is beautiful and I have met some really wonderful people. Met a bunch of guys that run a guesthouse and Internet café and we get along well. So I decided to extend my trip here and cut some time off Goa so I could hang with these guys and enjoy their company and learn more about the south. It is cool because we are all Indians but because I have never had good friends that are form the south, this is a good opportunity to get to know Indians that were brought up in the south. Also have met a really cool girl who is also Indian but from UK with roots in Goa and UP. She is quite western and can speak functional Hindi. So I have been hanging out with the guys and the girl on separate occasions and have introduced them to her as well. Most people now think that she is my girlfriend or my wife! So we are all going to Allepy on Saturday night to attend the first communion of one of the guy's younger sister on Sunday. Some good times and jokes last night in Malayalam and Hindi. The rest of the time I spent on the beach, watching the sunset, talking to the shopkeepers who are mostly N. Indians so I can bargain in Hindi and feel at home or they are Tibetan! Quite a lot of Kashmiri shop keepers here too! I was stupid enough to walk into the ocean with my sunglasses and now some swordfish is probably wearing them with improved eyesight!

Off to Goa on Monday night and then to Mumbai on Wednesday night. It has been a long trip and I am somewhat looking forward to the stability of life back home, but am sure I'll want to be back here sooner than I realize. Till the last update, take care and hope to see most of you by the end of 2002. 

Sameer